Climbing in Nepal >> Paldor Peak (5896m) Climbing

Paldor Peak 5,896m is located in the Ganesh Himal, northwest of Katmandu. The name Ganesh is taken from the elephant-headed Hindu god of good luck, probably the most popular God in the Kathamndu valley. It was Frist climbed by John Cleare and Ian Howell in 1974. Between Tilman's ascent in 1949 and Cleare's expedition of 1974 it is possible that Paldor had no other ascents. Since then the mountain has received more attention and many new routes added. Paldor is one of the best and famous trekking in Ganesh Himal region. This peak can be climbed from North East, South East, West and South West Ridge.

The quickest approach to Paldor and Ganesh Himal is from Sabru near Dunche in the Trisuli valley which can be reached in a 6 to 7 hours drive from Kathmandu. From here the trail crosses the Langtang Khola to Sabrubesi. After crossing the Bhote Kosi River the route leads via Tamang villages of Tangjet and Gatlang, and then heads northwards along the ridge before dropping into the forest above Mailung Khola to pick up the newly built road that leads to an army post. The moraine filled valley below Paldor is reached from here in another days walk. A more interesting approach is the trek from Sundarijal (on the outskirts of Kathmandu valley) through the hills of Helambu and over the Gosainkunda range to Sabru. The return Back to Kathmandu. This peak can be climbed from North East, South East, West and South West Ridge.

 

South - East Ridge
John Cleare and Ian Howell first climbed this in 1974. Between Tilman's ascent in 1949 and Cleare's expedition of 1974 it is possible that Paldor had no other ascents. Since then the mountain has received more attention and many new routes added.

This route climbs the long snow and ice arête that descends to the fine rock peak of Fang. The lowest point of this ridge is best reached, from a high camp on the Paldor Glacier East, by a steep snow and ice slope (55 degrees). The ridge has also been reached via a potential avalanche couloir from the Paldor Glacier West. The ridge is above is followed, in places quite steeply, but without major difficulty to the summit. A combination of both these routes has been made as a traverse and is highly recommended

 

North - East Ridge
From base camp, follow a path below the conspicuous moraine on its east side as far as Paldor Tarn. Here there is a small and inconspicuous lake to the south of the peak called Fang. Cross the stream issuing from the lake and aim for the east ridge of Fang. This boulders slope is the Paldor Glacier east at an altitude of 5,200 meters, in a magnificent amphitheatre of alpine - scale peaks. The glacier at this point is flat and uncomplicated by crevasses.

From high camp follow the Paldor Glacier, East, without difficulty, north towards a col on the North - East Ridge. Cross the bergscrund and climb a steep snow slope to gain the col. This may be very difficulty, in which case ascend the slope to the left, climbing diagonally towards a rocky pinnacle. Once on the ridge, climb over several pinnacles of loose rock leading to a horizontal snow arête that narrows dramatically. Follow this foot of the final 150 meters (492 feet) headwall. Ascend this on steep snow to the junction of the South- East Ridge, which may be corniced.

 

Trip Facts

Destination:Nepal-Ganesh Himal
Trek Name:Paldor Peak (5896m) Climbing
Starting point:Sabru
Ending point:Syapru besi
Culture:Mixed
Grade:Difficult
Group size:Min 2. Max 20.pax
Best time:Oct-Dec,Mar-June
Activity: Sightseeing and trekking/climbing
Accommodation: Hotel, camping
Transportation:Private car/Van/Bus
Maximum altitude: 5896m